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Kalhana,
the author of 'Rajtarangini’, states that Srinagar was
founded by Emperor Ashoka (3rd Century BC). The
present city of Srinagar was founded by Pravarasena-II,
and Hiuen Tsang, who visited Kashmir in 631 AD, found it
at the same site as it is today. Laltaditya Muktapida
was the most illustrious ruler of Kashmir in the Hindu
period, which ended in 1339 AD. King Zain-ul-Abidin
(1420-70 AD), popularly known as ‘Budshah’, was a great
patron of Sanskrit. Akbar captured Kashmir valley for
the Mughals, who endowed Srinagar with beautiful mosques
and gardens. The Sikhs overthrew the last Muslim ruler
in the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1819. In
1846 the Dogras secured the sovereignty of Kashmir from
the British under the Treaty of Amrjtsar, and in 1947
the state of Jammu and Kashmir with Srinagar as its
capital, became part of the Indian Union.
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The Lakes |
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Srinagar's
distinctive feature is the great body of water,
the Dal Lake, which forms its focal point. The Dal
has, within its area, two enormous sheet-like
expanses of water-Lokut-dal and Bod-dal, the rest
of its surface being broken up alternatively by
man-made strips of land inhabited by whole
colonies of people and vegetation. Thus the lake
is not a flat, unbroken mass of water, but a
labyrinth of waterways, awash with a lifestyle not
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Leading from the Dal
is the smaller Nagin Lake. Here too, the waters
are edged by trees of willow and poplar whose
reflection is mirrored in the lake. 'Bathing
boats' here, as well as on the Dal, hire out
water-skis and motor launches. The waters of the
lakes are pleasantly cool from mid-May to
mid-September. Shikaras can be hired from any of
the steps called 'ghats' (jetties) leading to the
lake. Some rides are fixed and their rates are
posted at each ghat as well as opposite the Tourist
Reception Centre. Shikaras are a refreshingly
novel way of seeing Srinagar by day and at
twilight, the gentle soothing motion of the boat,
as it glides along the water, is unbelievably
romantic.Nagin lake lies to
the east of the city at the foot of the Zabarwan
Mountain. The Shankaracharya hill (Takht-i-Sulaiman)
is to the south and Hari Parbat on its west. The
lake is 6x3 km and is divided by causeways into
four parts. Gagribal, Lakut-dal, Bod-dal and Nagin.
Lokut-dal and Bod-dal each have an island in the
centre, called Rup Lank or Char Chinari and Sona
Lank, respectively. |
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Mughal Gardens |
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Shalimar Bagh |
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Built by Emperor
Jehangir for his wife Nur Jehan, Shalimar, 15
kms from the TRC, is a beautiful garden with
sweeping vistas over gardens and lakes, and
shallow terraces. The garden is 539 m by 182 m
and has four terraces, rising one above the
other. A canal lined with polished stones and
supplied with water from Harwan runs through
the middle of the garden. The fourth terrace,
by far the best, was once reserved for royal
ladies. |
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Nishat Bagh |
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Situated on the
banks of the Dal Lake, with the Zabarwan
Mountains as its backdrop, (11 km. from TRC),
this 'garden of bliss' commands a magnificent
view of the lake and the snow capped Pir
Panjal mountain range which stands far away to
the west of the valley. Nishat was designed in
1633 AD by Asaf Khan, brother of Nur Jehan. |
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Chashma Shahi |
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At Chashmashai,
is a tastefully laid garden in terraces, which
commands a magnificent view of the Dal Lake
below and surrounding mountain ranges. The
cool water of the spring is highly refreshing
and digestive. The original garden was laid
out by Shah Jehan in 1632 AD. TRC Srinagar
free of cost to visit the permits can be had
from the infromation Counter Chashma Shahi
Garden. Permits can be had from the
infromation counter. |
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Pari Mahal |
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Once the royal observatory, Pari Mahal has a
charmingly laid out garden and is a
five-minute drive from Cheshmashahi. A
Buddhist monastery at one time, it was
converted into a school of astrology by Dara
Shikoh, Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan's eldest
son. Situated on the spur of a mountain
overlooking the Dal, the ancient monument,
with a well-laid spacious garden in front, is
connected to Cheshmashahi by road. It is
illuminated at night. |
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Harwan |
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On the hillside,
south of the village of Harwan (19 kms from the
TRC)), remarkable remains of ancient ornamented
tile pavements of the Buddhist period have come to
light. The tiles depict the dresses of the people,
such as loose trousers, Turkoman caps or close
fitting turbans and large ear-rings which reveal
Central Asian influence. |
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Shrines &
Monuments |
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Hazratbal Mosque |
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Hazratbal Mosque
is located in a village of the same name on
the banks of the Dal. Its pristine white
marble elegance is reflected in the waters of
the lake. Hazratbal's special significance is
derived from the fact that it houses a hair of
the prophet Muhammad. This is displayed to the
public on religious occasions, usually
accompanied by fairs. Apart from these
occasions, Friday prayers are offered at
Hazratbal and attended by throngs of people.
Hazratbal is remarkable for being the only
domed mosque in Srinagar; the others having
distinct pagoda like roofs. The shrine –
mosque complex is situated on the western
shore of the Dal Lake opposite Nishat Bagh and
commands a grand view of the lake and the
mountain beyond. |
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Jama Masjid |
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The Jama Masjid at Nowhatta, in the heart of
the old city, is the other important mosque in
Srinagar at which thousands of people
congregate for the Friday prayers. Of imposing
proportions, the mosque is built around a
courtyard and is supported by 370 wooden
pillars. The hushed quiet of the mosque
counterpoints the bustle of the old bazaars
surrounding it. Originally built by Sultan
Sikandar in 1400 AD, and enlarged by his son,
Zain-ul- Abidin, it is a typical example of
Indo-Saracenic architecture. Destroyed thrice
by fire and rebuilt each time, the mosque, as
it now stands, was repaired during the reign
of Maharaja Pratap Singh. |
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Shankaracharya Temple
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The sacred
temple of Shankaracharya occupies the top of
the hills known as Takht-I-Sulaiman in the
south-east of Srinagar. The site dates back to
250BC. The philosopher Shankaracharya stayed
at this place when he visited Kashmir ten
centuries ago to revive Sanatan Dharma. Before
this date, the temple was known as Gopadri, as
an earlier edifice on the same site was built
by king Lalitaditya in the 6th century AD. In
fact, the road below the hill, with residences
of high- ranking State Government officials,
is still known as Gupkar road. Built on a high
octagonal plinth and approached by a flight of
steps with side walls that once bore
inscriptions, the main surviving shrine
consists of a circular cell. It overlooks the
Valley and can be approached by a motorable
road. A modern ceiling covers the inner
sanctum and an inscription in Persian traces
its origin to the reign of Emperor Shah Jehan.
The original ceiling was dome- shaped and the
brick roof, it appears, is not more than a
century old. |
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Hari Parbat Fort & Temple of Sharika Devi
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The Mughal emperor's fort crowns the top of
Hari Parbat hill. There is little left of its
former glory, but the ramparts are still
impressive and the old apartments within the
fort, even though in a state of ruin, still
convey at least a little of the grandeur of
the Mughals’ summer retreat in ‘paradise’. The
fort was later developed in 18th century by an
Afghan governor, Ata Mohammad Khan. The hill
is considered sacred to the Hindus due to the
presence of temple of Sharika, which is
believed to be a form of goddess Durga or
Shakti. The wall around the hill was built by
Akbar in 1592-98 AD. The hill is surrounded by
almond orchards, which make a lovely sight
during April when the trees blossom, heralding
the advent of spring in Kashmir |
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Makhdoom Sahib |
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On the southern
side of the Hari Parbat hill is the historic
shrine of Makhdoom Sahib, which is visited by
people of all faiths. |
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Chhatti Padshahi Gurudwara |
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The sixth Sikh guru travelled through Kashmir,
stopping to preach occasionally. A gurudwara
has been built at the exact site of each of
these halts. The most important one among
these is Chhatti Padshahi gurudwara, situated
near the Kathi Darwaza, in Rainawari, Srinagar,
which is held in great reverence by devotees
of all faiths. |
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Martand |
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Martand, located
atop a plateau, close to the township of
Anantnag, has a temple dedicated to Surya, the
"Sun God". Built by king Laitaditya Muktapida
(7th to 8th century AD), it is a medieval
temple with a colonnaded courtyard and the
shrine in its centre. The temple complex has
84 columns and offers a commanding view of the
valley of Kashmir. |
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Kheer Bhawani |
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The Goddess Ragnya Devi is symbolised as a
sacred spring at Tula Mula village, 27 kms
from Srinagar. Within the spring is a small
marble temple. The devotees of the goddess
fast and gather here on the eighth day of the
full moon in the month of May when, according
to belief, the goddess changes the colour of
the spring's waters. The temple-spring complex
is affectionately known as Kheer Bhawani
because of the thousands of devotees who offer
milk and 'kheer' to the sacred spring, which
magically turns black to warn of disaster. |
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Awantipur |
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Founded by
Avantivarman who reigned Kashmir in the 9th
century, this ancient township is 29 kms from
Srinagar. The site has two imposing temples,
the larger one of Siva - Avantisvara is marked
by huge walls, some half a mile beneath the
town on the outskirts of village Jaubror. The
subsidiary shrines are to the rear corner of
the courtyard. The complex has, over the
years, lost its grandeur and been reduced to
ruins, though it is still visited by the
devout. Half a mile up is Avantisvami -
Vishnu, a better preserved, though smaller
temple. |
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The Old City |
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With its almost
medieval charm, the old city of Srinagar has
sights, smells and sounds to enchant the most
jaded traveller. Its labyrinthine roads and
bustling bazaars are a photographer's delight.
Traditionally dressed men and women on their way
to the city's many mosques and shrines, burnt
brick buildings with their rich warm colour, these
are some of the old city's moods which linger in
the corners of a traveller's mind, long after one
leaves Kashmir. |
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Lending the area its
vitality is the presence of the river Jhelum that
flows through it. Srinagar has for long been
Kashmir's most important commercial town, and when
one considers that boats have always been a
primary means of conveyance in Kashmir, it is not
difficult to see why. In time, the city has formed
around the banks of the river. Today, the presence
of the river Jhelum has become an integral part of
the old city, despite the fact that boats are no
longer so extensively used as a means of
conveyance. Nine bridges span the River Jhelum,
and many, many more tiny ones intersect the
network of waterways that flow through the old
city. The nine bridges are Zero Bridge, Amira
Kadal, Budshah Kadal, Habba Kadal, Fateh Kadal,
Zaina Kadal, Aali Kadal, Nawa Kadal and Safa Kadal,
‘Kadal’ being the Kashmiri word for bridge.One of the many
moods of the old city is the constant reminder
about its tradition of handicrafts. Well-appointed
shops in the fashionable areas of Srinagar seem
rather remote from the humble families of
craftsmen who create tapestries and shawls; the
old city changes all that. From top floor windows
one catches sight of gaily embroidered fabric
hanging out to dry. Occasionally a wizened old man
cycles down the road, bearing a carpet, its
lustrous colours glowing in the sunlight. The old city also
boasts of Kashmir’s many ancient shrines and
mosques among which the shrine of Shah-i-Hamdan,
situated between Habba Kadal and Fateh Kadal, is
probably the most important. Shah-i-Hamdan, who
came from Persia in the 13th century, was
responsible for the spread of Islam in Kashmir.
Khanqah-i-Mualla, on the banks of the Jhelum, was
the very spot where Shah-i-Hamdan used to offer
prayers. Upon his death, a shrine, ornately
decorated with papier-mache on the walls and
ceiling, was built in his memory. Makhdoom Sahib,
Patthar Masjid, Jama Masjid and Pir Dastagir are
the major mosques and shrines in the old city. |
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